The 101 on Gel Nail Allergies...
I am sure most of you will be aware of the issue of allergic reactions to gel nail products that have been circulating in the media for a while now. So should you be concerned?....
Well, aware?...yes, concerned? not necessarily.
While almost all products have the potential to cause allergic reactions, the ingredients in Nail Gel are designed for use on the nail plate only and not on the skin! If the products are being used by trained professionals in the correct way then allergies are less likely. This is also the reason that you should NOT be tempted to buy these products and use them yourself at home! The gel products that are available to the general public should be avoided for several reasons;
- You do not know what is in them.
- You need the correct type of lamp to cure them properly.
- They are usually unlicensed products that can, and do, contain way above the level of chemical that is considered safe to use.
So what is causing the allergies & what should I do if I have one?
The ingredient being referred to in the media is Hydroxyethyl methacrylate or HEMA – this is a commonly used monomer in many nail products (and many others). It is a known allergen but relatively safe at or below the recommended percentage (35%). It is mostly concerned with adhesion but products with known allergen ingredients must be used correctly and safely i.e no contact with the skin and properly cured.* The thing to note about HEMA is this is also used in dental & orthopaedic procedures, so if you or your nail professional thinks you have had an allergy, it is vital you visit a dermatologist to check exactly what it is that you are allergic to. There should be no switching or trying other brands, as this will unlikely be helpful.
So, yes, HEMA can cause allergies, and many professionals are changing brands to HEMA free products. While this is ok, it does not solve the problem. The HEMA free products still contain other chemicals that ensure good adhesion to the nail plate, so these also have the potential to cause allergies if they are not used correctly.
The lamp being used is also important. It is important because each brand has been tested with its own type of lamp and for its own specified curing time. There are LED, UV and combination UV/LED lamps. Different types of gel have different curing times, so you may notice curing being slightly different depending on the product used. Uncured gel is a known cause of allergy.
Should I still have my nails done?
There is no reason to stop having gel nails done, providing you visit a qualified and insured nail professional, who is using a professional only product, you have had no issues or signs of an allergic reaction and your nails are healthy.
What should I look out for?
When having your nails done ASK them to see their qualifications and insurance! I am always happy to show mine, and any professional should be.
The application of any gel product should not be on the skin. Sometimes we do get product on the skin but this should be removed completely prior to curing.
Ask questions about the product being used and the lamps that are being used, a professional should be happy to answer your questions, and lets face it, most of us can drone on for hours about our professional knowledge!
Be on the look out for signs of an allergy - look for excessive peeling skin (not caused by picking/dry skin), abnormal shape or lifting of the nail plate. Also any pain or soreness of the nails should be checked out. If you or your nail professional suspects an allergy, all product use should be stopped. No gel products should be applied to the nail at all! You should then visit your GP for a referral to a dermatologist for an allergy test.
Do I need to take a break to let my nails "breathe"?
Taking breaks from nail products is not necessary providing the nail is in good condition and not overly damaged. Nails do not need to 'breathe', they are however porous which is why, if your nails are damaged, I recommend natural manicures and lots of cuticle oil to penetrate and nourish the nails. You also need to be responsible for your homecare and following the aftercare advice given to you by your nail professional. Cuticle oil should be used at least daily as standard with any nail service. If your nails are not kept hydrated, it can lead to lifting as the nail becomes dehydrated and curls away from the product.
Caring for your nail enhancements -You should always get your rebalance done every 2-3 weeks. We are seeing so many images on social media of nails that have lasted 4 or more weeks, and while this is ok once in a while, it should not be a regular thing.
If the product has any lifting that you can not easily see, it has the potential for water to get in and bacteria causing an infection or 'greenie' where the nail turns green. This usually needs antibiotic treatment, and no nail products until it is grown out.
Nail growth also makes the nail unbalanced which puts stress on the nail and can cause significant damage when the nail inevitably breaks.
I hope this has answered most of the questions surrounding Nail allergies, if you have any further questions, please do ask me when you are in for your treatments.
*Information from Nail Knowledge (nailknowledge.org).
